Getting Two New Keyless Entry Remotes for a 1997 Vehicle: Replacement Options, Programming, and Typical Cost

For a 1997 vehicle with a two-button keyless entry remote, the usual path to getting two replacements is to identify the exact factory remote frequency and part number, then buy either original-style replacements or compatible aftermarket remotes. In most cases, the vehicle itself does not need a major repair; the main issue is matching the correct remote to the receiver already installed in the car. The answer depends on the make, model, trim level, and sometimes the production date, because 1997 was a changeover period for many remote-entry systems and different versions were used within the same model line.

This does not automatically mean the entire keyless entry system has failed. If the remaining remote still communicates with the car, the receiver and programming are often still functional. What usually matters is whether the replacement remote matches the correct system type and whether the vehicle uses self-programming, dealer programming, or a module-based procedure. On many 1990s vehicles, getting two new remotes is possible without replacing the receiver, but the exact options and cost vary enough that the vehicle’s VIN, factory equipment list, and remote part number should be verified before buying.

Direct Answer and Vehicle Context

The most practical options are usually one of these: buy two used OEM remotes, buy two new aftermarket-compatible remotes, or buy one or two original equipment remotes through a dealer or parts specialist if they are still available. For a 1997 vehicle, the remote is often a simple fixed-code or early rolling-code fob tied to a specific factory receiver, so the correct replacement depends on the exact vehicle platform rather than just the model year.

If the current remote is worn but still works, a replacement can often be ordered by matching the number stamped on the back of the remote or by using the vehicle identification number to identify the original part. If one remote has already been lost, it is usually still possible to add two new remotes. In many systems, all remotes may need to be reprogrammed at the same time, which means the remaining old remote may be erased during the process and then added back along with the two new ones.

Approximate cost is usually modest for aftermarket replacements and higher for OEM or dealer-supplied parts. As a general real-world range, two remotes might cost roughly $30 to $120 for aftermarket or used OEM units, and about $100 to $300 or more for original dealer-supplied remotes, depending on availability. If programming requires a locksmith or dealer visit, labor can add another $50 to $150 or more. Rare systems, discontinued remotes, or integrated key-fob/key transponder setups can cost more.

How This System Actually Works

A keyless entry remote is only one part of the system. The remote sends a coded radio signal to a receiver module in the vehicle, usually located behind the dash, in the rear body area, or integrated into a body control circuit depending on the make. When the receiver recognizes the correct code, it triggers the door lock or unlock relay or the body control logic that operates the locks.

On a 1997 vehicle, the system may be relatively simple compared with later cars. Some use separate remote-entry modules, while others combine the keyless entry function with the body electronics. The remote itself is not universal just because it has two buttons. Button layout, frequency, FCC ID, and internal coding all matter. Two remotes that look similar can still be incompatible.

If the vehicle was bought used and the remote came with it, there is also a chance the remote was not the original factory unit. Many older vehicles had dealer-installed systems or aftermarket keyless entry kits. That changes the replacement path completely, because the correct remote must match the installed receiver, not just the vehicle model.

What Usually Causes This

The most common reason for needing replacement is simple wear or loss. Rubber buttons crack, contacts weaken, cases break, and batteries corrode the circuit board. In older remotes, the shell often fails before the electronics do. If one remote was lost and the remaining one is in poor condition, the system may still be functioning normally even though the hardware is no longer reliable.

Another common issue is that the wrong remote is being matched to the car. This happens often on 1990s vehicles because the same model year may have had multiple remote types, different factory suppliers, or mid-year changes. A remote that looks correct can still fail if the frequency or programming format is wrong.

Less commonly, the receiver or body control module is the real problem. If the remaining remote works only intermittently, the issue may be weak remote battery contacts, water intrusion, or a failing receiver. If neither button works even with a fresh battery and the remote has already been verified as the correct type, the fault may not be the remote at all.

How the Correct Diagnosis Is Separated From Similar Problems

The first distinction is between a bad remote and a bad vehicle receiver. A remote with a weak battery, damaged case, or worn button pads may work only when pressed firmly or from very close range. A receiver problem usually affects all remotes, not just one. If the surviving remote still operates the locks consistently, that is a strong sign the vehicle-side system is still alive.

The second distinction is between factory and aftermarket equipment. A 1997 vehicle may have an original remote-entry system, but it may also have been fitted with an aftermarket alarm or remote-entry kit at some point in its life. The visible clue is often the remote itself: unusual branding, non-OEM button layout, or an added control box under the dash. That matters because the replacement procedure and parts source are completely different.

The third distinction is between a simple remote battery issue and a programming issue. If the remote lights up or shows signs of power but the vehicle does not respond, the battery may still be too weak under load, or the remote may no longer be programmed to the receiver. On some older systems, replacing the battery does not erase the code, but on others, low voltage or failed memory can make the remote unreliable.

What People Commonly Get Wrong

A common mistake is buying remotes based only on the year and number of buttons. That is not enough on a 1997 vehicle. The correct match usually requires the exact part number, FCC ID, or receiver type. A two-button remote for one model may not work on another model from the same year, even if the shape is similar.

Another mistake is assuming the car needs a new receiver because the remote case is broken. In many cases, the internal electronics can be moved into a new shell, or the remote can be replaced entirely without touching the vehicle module. If the circuit board is intact, a case-only repair may be enough.

It is also common to assume that all remotes must be dealer-programmed. Some 1990s vehicles can be programmed with a sequence involving the ignition and door locks, while others require scan tool access or professional programming. The correct method depends on the exact vehicle and system, not the age alone.

Tools, Parts, or Product Categories Involved

The parts and categories typically involved are simple: replacement keyless entry remotes, remote batteries, remote shells or cases, and sometimes a receiver module or body control module if the vehicle-side system is faulty. If programming is needed, a locksmith or dealer scan tool may be involved on certain systems.

Useful diagnostic items include a fresh battery for the existing remote, basic hand tools for opening the fob, and vehicle identification information such as the VIN, FCC ID, or original remote part number. In some cases, a multimeter can help confirm battery voltage and contact condition, especially if the remote works only intermittently.

If the vehicle uses an integrated alarm or aftermarket system, the relevant parts may also include a separate control box, antenna lead, or valet/programming switch. Those components are often overlooked, but they determine which remotes will actually work.

Practical Conclusion

For a 1997 vehicle, getting two new keyless remotes is usually very possible, but the key step is matching the exact system before buying anything. The most likely outcome is that the car still has a working receiver and only the remotes need replacement or reprogramming. What should not be assumed too early is that any two-button remote for the same year will work, or that the vehicle needs a new module just because the old fobs are worn out.

The best next step is to identify the remote part number or FCC ID from the remaining remote, then confirm whether the vehicle is factory-equipped or fitted with an aftermarket system. Once that is known, two compatible remotes can usually be sourced and programmed, with total cost often falling somewhere between about $30 and $300 depending on part source and programming method.