Clicking and Clunking Noise from Rear Wheel on 2013 Tesla Model S During Acceleration and Deceleration: Causes and Diagnosis

Hearing a clicking or clunking sound from the rear of your 2013 Tesla Model S–especially when you’re speeding up or slowing down–is the kind of thing that instantly makes your stomach drop. And honestly, it should get your attention. The tricky part is that these noises are easy to misread. Some people assume the worst and start swapping expensive parts, while others shrug it off until a small issue turns into a big one. The real win is understanding what that sound *usually* means so you can track it down without guessing.

What’s happening back there (and why it can get noisy)

Even though the Model S doesn’t have a traditional gas-engine drivetrain, the rear end still has plenty of moving parts that take a beating. You’ve got the wheel hub and bearings, brakes, suspension links and bushings, and the drive unit sending torque to the wheels through half shafts and joints.

When you accelerate, everything loads up in one direction. When you lift off or brake, the load shifts back the other way. If something is worn, loose, or has a little too much play, that shift can announce itself as a click, a thunk, or a clunk. In other words: the noise is often the sound of parts taking up slack.

The most common real-world causes

Here’s what typically ends up being responsible, from “very common” to “worth checking”:

1. Worn CV joints / half shafts

These joints transfer power from the drive unit to the wheels while the suspension moves. When they wear, they can click–often more noticeable under acceleration, and sometimes more obvious during turns.

1. Differential or drive unit wear/play

Inside the rear drive unit, components that manage torque can develop wear. If there’s excessive backlash or internal wear, you may hear a clunk right as you get on or off the throttle.

1. Suspension wear (bushings, control arms, mounts)

Rubber bushings and joints don’t last forever. When they loosen up, the suspension can shift slightly under load changes, creating a dull clunk that feels like it’s coming from the wheel area.

1. Wheel bearing issues

Bearings more often growl or grind, but depending on the failure, you can get clicking or rough, rhythmic noise that changes with speed.

1. Loose or damaged brake hardware

A loose caliper bracket, worn pad hardware, or something not seated correctly can make a surprising amount of noise–sometimes only when transitioning between acceleration and braking.

1. Debris stuck where it shouldn’t be

Less common, but it happens: a stone or debris can get lodged near the rotor shield or in a tight spot and make a maddening click that mimics a serious problem.

How a good technician usually tracks it down

Pros don’t jump straight to replacing parts–they try to *recreate the sound on purpose* and narrow it down.

• Visual inspection first: look for torn CV boots, leaking grease, damaged bushings, loose hardware, abnormal wear patterns.
• Road test under different conditions: gentle acceleration, hard acceleration, regen braking, coasting, turning–each situation loads the rear end differently and can point to the source.
• Check for play by hand: with the car safely lifted, they’ll check for looseness in suspension joints, wheel bearings, axle play, and anything that shouldn’t move but does.
• Scan for codes (when relevant): not every mechanical clunk throws a code, but it’s still part of a thorough process.

Where people go wrong

A big mistake is assuming “clicking/clunking = motor or transmission problem.” On an EV, it’s easy to focus on the drive unit and overlook basics like suspension bushings or brake hardware.

Another common–and expensive–misstep is replacing CV joints, half shafts, or even drive unit components without confirming the noise source. If you don’t diagnose first, you can spend a lot of money and still hear the same clunk on the next drive.

Tools and parts that often come into play

Depending on what’s found, repairs might involve:

• A scan tool for diagnostics (and to rule out related faults)
• Suspension parts (control arms, bushings, mounts)
• Half shafts/CV joints
• Drive unit/differential-related components
• Wheel bearings and hub hardware
• Brake clips, bolts, or caliper mounting components

Bottom line

A rear clicking or clunking sound on a 2013 Model S during acceleration or deceleration isn’t something to ignore–but it also isn’t something to panic over. It usually points to wear, looseness, or play in the half shafts/CV joints, suspension, wheel bearings, brake hardware, or sometimes the drive unit itself. The key is a methodical diagnosis, not guesswork. If you’re hearing it consistently, having a qualified technician inspect it is the fastest way to protect both your wallet and your safety–and to get your quiet Tesla back to being, well, quiet.